Strawberries: From Elite Treat to Beloved Swedish Luxury

From pleasure for the elite to a given place in Swedish hearts and on Swedish tables. The strawberry's path has gone via the first summer cottages and the rise of car traffic. And all the time the weather and wind decide if there will be any strawberries.

» Published: July 28 2025 at 12:10

Strawberries: From Elite Treat to Beloved Swedish Luxury
Photo: Anders Wiklund/TT

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Ingemar Hammarlund in Ockelbo had at the beginning of the summer a list of about twenty people who wanted to have a whole box of strawberries, or more. But they had to wait.

One wants them to develop at their own pace.

Around Midsummer, much is about strawberries, even though the season is longer than that. This year, Ingemar Hammarlund could not offer any strawberries from his cultivation for Midsummer, the spring was too cold. Not until a bit into July did he expect to be able to pick.

One wants to be able to deliver, and preferably by Midsummer. Normally, there are at least some by mid-July, but this year it was later.

He has been growing strawberries since the 1980s.

I knew nothing when I started! But I like strawberries and like to work with them.

A summer activity

Strawberry cultivation is not something you get rich on, even when prices soar before Midsummer. Ingemar Hammarlund worked for a long time in the school with the cultivation as a "summer activity" and many of the area's youths have had summer jobs picking. If his perhaps most famous student from his time as a sports teacher was among the pickers, he does not remember, but Prince Daniel has at least come and shopped from him with his family.

When Swedes started eating strawberries in the 1700s, it was just the upper social classes who feasted on the sweet berries. It did not become really big until the 20th century's market gardens and allotments. The fact that more and more people had the opportunity to have a summer cottage gave the strawberry an additional boost, says food researcher Richard Tellström.

It was not something the working class had before the 1920s-30s. The upper class had summer homes. It is a kind of summer home food culture, or summer cottage food culture, that drives the interest in strawberries.

In the 1950s, large strawberry cultivations opened in mainly central Sweden and southern Sweden. This coincides with car travel, you go on excursions and buy strawberries. In the second half of the 1960s, self-picking arrived and made the interest in strawberries increase even more.

Wrong season

So strawberries went from being a pleasure for the elite to a popular luxury. And they are still seen as luxurious, even when it is possible to find imported strawberries when it is still winter here.

Serving a food at the wrong time of year has always been considered extra luxurious and flashy because it belongs to the upper class. So it is finer to serve strawberries on New Year's Eve than on Midsummer Eve, it is like the wrong season and then it is only the most wealthy who can afford it.

Strawberry grower Ingemar Hammarlund is not overly fond of the imported berries that appear before the frost has left the ground.

There should be everything, always. I do not buy any myself, at least, he says diplomatically.

Growing strawberries, and especially organically, is about adapting to the fact that nature does not always cooperate. One challenge is that without spraying, everything wants to grow, not just strawberries, dandelions and white clover readily spread out in the fields.

The worst weed is thistle, especially if they get in among the strawberries. One wants the strawberries to develop at their own pace and not be competed out by other plants.

The weeds are the biggest problem, but the pests are also a tough challenger. Ingemar Hammarlund has had visits from both strawberry weevils and hoverflies. The seagulls can be heard screaming near the strawberry land. It is difficult to protect oneself against birds.

They cannot be scared away, because they are not afraid. When the seagulls come in flocks, they can take everything if you are not at home.

Rain worst

And then the weather, which can be both the farmer's best friend and worst enemy. A dry summer he can handle, because he has good opportunities for irrigation - a necessity for strawberries. A wet and rainy summer is worse.

It must not be too wet when you pick, it is difficult to pick when it rains. And if it rains for several days, it is a crisis, then the strawberries start to rot.

A few years ago, it thawed and froze alternately so that the strawberry fields lay under ice.

I saw the poor guys down there under the ice trying to breathe.

He cannot say that he has noticed any climate change, but the weather and the seasons have their fluctuations and one has to accept that.

Then you cannot give up, it is just to take new action. You work with or against nature.

Boel Holm/TT

Fact: Strawberries - a vitamin injection

TT

Strawberries contain a lot of vitamins, dietary fiber, and minerals. Among other things, they have more vitamin C and twice as much folate as oranges per kilo.

Sweden imports around 7,500 tons of strawberries and raspberries from abroad annually. About 20,000 tons of strawberries are estimated to need to be picked in Sweden during a season.

Swedes consume an average of about 2 kilograms of strawberries per person each year.

Source: National Food Agency and the Board of Agriculture

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By TTEnglish edition by Sweden Herald, adapted for local and international readers
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