The event became a political commentary, notes Emma Severinsson, historian and lecturer in fashion science at Lund University.
There was no lack of eye candy in the rain on Fifth Avenue. Up the blue carpet walked the fashion elite, athletes, and other celebrities dressed in their interpretation of the theme "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style" (in Swedish roughly "Refined: Tailored Black Style"). The theme is inspired by the spring's Metropolitan exhibition on "black dandyism" and the black population's historical identity and style in Europe and the USA.
The exhibition is based on academic literature, which currently becomes a commentary against Donald Trump's anti-intellectualism and his feud with universities in the USA, says Severinsson.
A Protest?
The theme was decided last year, at a time when Democrat Kamala Harris was aiming to become the country's first female, black president. Now, when Republican Trump lives in the White House, the theme becomes loaded on several levels: He has demanded that the state apparatus, the defense, and the university sphere cease with so-called DEI programs – initiatives for diversity, equality, and inclusion.
To highlight black fashion creators and "underdog fashion" as a protest turns into a larger political stance against curtailed rights and non-diversity, notes Severinsson.
She sees a clear male 19th-century outline among the guests. There were extremely tailored suit pants resting on shiny shoes. Imaginative interpretations of tailcoats and smoking jackets were complemented with canes, and hats.
Many played with the oversized dandy style from Harlem. There, you didn't go out without a hat, which Kim Kardashian did her interpretation of.
Majestic Mix
Which outfit made the strongest impression on Emma Severinsson?
(Actor) Colman Domingo, but not just for his draped blue cape from Valentino. Under it, he had a checked jacket, dotted scarf, and fabric flower – a majestic men's fashion mix that caught the theme.
She also highlights artist Teyana Taylor's mix of grid-patterned and red. And disco legend Diana Ross, who wore a gigantic white dress with a train and hat.
A real flirt with the 19th century when the upper class dressed extravagantly. However, such garments have often been linked to the white culture that then had the power.
In the organizing committee for the gala sat Colman Domingo, along with artist and designer Pharrell Williams, rapper Asap Rocky, racing driver Lewis Hamilton, basketball star LeBron James, and American Vogue's editor-in-chief Anna Wintour.
