Mannerström Disappointed by Lack of Swedish Food in Culture Canon

No sour herring, no meatballs, no Tore Wretman or Cajsa Warg. In the government's cultural canon, the Swedish food culture is completely missing. I get very disappointed, says chef profile Leif Mannerström.

» Published: September 02 2025 at 11:50

Mannerström Disappointed by Lack of Swedish Food in Culture Canon
Photo: Janerik Henriksson/TT

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Swedish food culture would have a self-evident place, promised culture canon general Lars Trägårdh.

But on the list there are neither cinnamon buns, Carl Butler's cookbook nor any food at all.

Leif Mannerström thinks it's strange.

I have worked with food for almost 70 years, so it's clear that I become very disappointed, he says to TT.

Maybe one doesn't understand how important our food culture is. I am very proud of the food culture we have in Sweden. Many times I have also been out in the world and cooked food with a Swedish touch and it's always very appreciated.

Teaching Swedish food culture in Swedish schools should be self-evident, thinks Mannerström.

Fantastic food is cooked at some schools, but at other schools it's absolutely dreadful. It's the same thing at nursing homes, but it costs the same amount of money. One should care when cooking food.

What Swedish food would you yourself have wanted to see in a culture canon?

We have our herring. And it's tedious to say it, but when I mention meatballs, one always hears that they are Turkish. No, Swedish meatballs are Swedish with that flavor.

Would you and your restaurant Johanna have been included?

Yes, I think so. That one and Operakällaren of course. We were lucky to discover the new French cuisine and we transformed it into the new Swedish cuisine.

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By TTEnglish edition by Sweden Herald, adapted for local and international readers

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